A simple EH Antenna calculator that will help you in calculating turns a spacing of antenna traps
Download EH Antenna Calculator
A simple EH Antenna calculator that will help you in calculating turns a spacing of antenna traps
Download EH Antenna Calculator
Zakanaka, a digital mode decoding and terminal program written by Bob Furzer, K4CY. Bob is also the author of Logger, a logging program with a PSK31 decoding and terminal module that runs under Windows 95/98, Windows 2000, and Windows NT
Was originally intended to decode PSK31, RTTY, and CW. During November 2000, K4CY added RTTY capability to Zakanaka by incorporating the RTTY engine of MMTTY, which was written by Makoto Mori, JE3HHT, into Zakanaka. This changed Zakanaka from a PSK31 program to a PSK31 and RTTY program
Zakanaka includes new and powerful software tools. It can decode three signals simultaneously, and gives radio amateurs information that they can use to help themselves and other amateur radio operators to improve their equipment, adjustments, and operating procedures. Zakanaka exchanges information with Logger, resulting in
· One-click entry of callsigns for use in logging and in macros.
· Presentation of frequency information on the Zakanaka Display (requires a radio that communicates with Logger over the serial port).
· Automatic entry of data from the Zakanaka Rx screen to Logger.
RTTY
Zakanaka uses the encoding/decoding engine of the MMTTY program to operate RTTY. This program was written by Makoto Mori, JE3HHT, and we express our thanks for permission to use this software. If you need a copy of this program, please go to the link shown below in the section on internet links.
Download Zakanaka 1.24 (5.60 Mb)
This web page describes a small, single tuned circuit regenerative receiver primarily for daylight reception in the 16, 19, 22 and 25 meter international shortwave broadcast bands. I have attempted to incorporate every improvement I have thought of into this receiver, including maximum mechanical rigidity and electrical shielding. This receiver is suited for reception of AM signals with the regenerative stage not oscillating. It’s not an autodyne receiver. Oscillation is very noisy, but reception without oscillation is good.
I have borrowed a concept from bioinstrumentation: I treat a short wire antenna as an electrode rather than an antenna. The RF stage immediately following the antenna has an input impedance high enough so that the signal voltage on the antenna is essentially transferred to the gate of the first stage over the tuning range of the receiver without antenna tuning. I know from my reading that the maximum impedance the antenna will present to the receiver is about 2,000 Ohms. I placed a 2 megOhm bias resistor from gate to common at the input to a 2N3819 jfet and rely on that 2N3819 RF stage input impedance to be high enough compared to the antenna impedance that I can ignore antenna length over the tuning range of the receiver. The only way I can get away with that in the presence of the ever-present 60 Hz fields is to couple the antenna to the jfet gate with a small capacitance. And I can do that because the RF stage input impedance is very high. In this regenerative receiver I have installed ten capacitors ranging from three turns of hookup wire to 100 pF. I arrived at this configuration by experimenting in the field near a 60 Hz “drop” power line. This is very similar to the “active antenna” concept.
The receiver tuning technique I use which takes advantage of the switched antenna coupling capacitors is as follows: Let’s say you have a weak station tuned in in the 19 meter(15 mHz) band, and the antenna coupling capacitance selected is 8pF. Let’s further say that you have advanced the VERY FINE REGENERATION CONTROL as far clockwise as possible short of oscillation and that you have the signal tuned to the center of its carrier. You can then change the antenna coupling capacitance to 12 pF. You will notice an immediate drop in received signal level, but you can then advance the VERY FINE REGENERATION CONTROL further clockwise, and you will find you have somewhat greater signal strength than you did at 8pF. You will also notice that tuning with the FINE TUNING CONTROL is slightly broader than it was at 8 pF. You have slightly increased loading of the tuned circuit by the antenna(even though there is a jfet stage between the antenna and the regenerative stage). How far you carry this process depends on the proximity of powerful stations to the station you want to hear. It’s a tradeoff between received signal strength and selectivity. It’s a good choice to have available.
I wound bifilar coupling transformers with different numbers of turns, and settled on 75 turns as best. More turns can result in decreased tuning range. Fewer turns can result in decreased gain. The resonant frequency of this transformer was deliberately shifted down with a capacitor across the primary winding to give more or less uniform regeneration control over the tuning range of the receiver. There is a 1 megOhm resistor in parallel with the capacitor. This resistor makes the control of regeneration more nearly uniform over the receiver’s tuning range. The inductance of the bifilar RF coupling transformer decreases the minimum frequency tuned by the receiver by at least 1.5 megaHertz.
I used a bifilar RF transformer to couple the output of the regenerative RF amplifier to the diode detector, and I connected the tickler coil to the bottom or cold end of the bifilar RF transformer primary to minimize the impedance change that the regenerative 2N3819 jfet drain sees when the regeneration control potentiometers across the tickler coil are adjusted. The mathematics to justify this circuit is as follows: The first derivative of the voltage gain with respect to the regeneration control resistance across the tickler coil is equal to the negative of the voltage gain squared divided by the total load resistance connected to the drain. See QEX, July/August, 2001, pages 53, 54. Also, it’s important not to connect the bottom end of the bifilar RF transformer secondary winding to ground as would be necessary if a single detector diode were used rather than a bridge. Connecting the bottom end of the bifilar RF transformer secondary winding to ground greatly reduces receiver output. I know, I have tried it.
The tuning coil is wound with approximately AWG 18 enameled magnet wire on a cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) cylindrical form. Each end of the winding is passed through two holes drilled in the form with approximately ½ inch of protruding magnet wire scraped clean of insulation. These two bare copper ends serve as terminals for the coil. The coil is mounted on the chassis deck with small angle brackets, machine screws and nuts. The tuning coil, mounted above the chassis is shielded by an empty steel food can. Stability of this receiver’s tuned circuit is enhanced by very slightly compression loading the coil form by making it very slightly longer than the shield can. The angle brackets on the shield can are located just above the raised “lip” on the lower edge of the(empty soup) can so that tightening these screws compression loads the coil form. Spacing between the coil, chassis deck and shield can follows the guidelines in the 1992 ARRL handbook for shielded inductors.
I have made an effort to lay this receiver out for the most direct possible point-to-point wiring. There is a SPST toggle switch which connects a 33 pF capacitor across the tuned circuit to allow 25 meter band reception. The connections from the 140 pF tuning capacitor and the tuning coil to the RF circuit board below the chassis deck are made with AWG number 14 solid insulated wire. Hot glue was used as a “grommet” where this wire passes through holes in the chassis deck. The same technique was used where RG 178/U coaxial cable and solid hookup wire passes through holes in metal.
The receiver was built on a diecast aluminum chassis with a rubber “foot” at each corner. The chassis wall thickness is 0.075 inch. The RF circuit board is held above the inside bottom surface of the chassis with machine screws and nylon spacers. Main or coarse tuning is accomplished with a high quality 140 pF anodized variable capacitor bought on Ebay driven by an Argonne AR-404 Vernier drive also bought on ebay. Fine tuning is done with a “floating rotor” variable capacitor driven by a small Vernier drive. The floating rotor tuning capacitor has two fixed aluminum plates separated by an air gap. An aluminum rotor held and driven by a small Vernier drive moves in and out between these fixed plates varying the capacitance as it moves. The overall capacitance change from “rotor in” to “rotor out” is on the order of 0.1 pF, but this capacitance change is more than enough to tune completely through a received signal. The floating rotor capacitor is very good for tuning precisely to the center of a received AM signal. Its location close to the very fine regeneration control makes it easy to tune and optimize a weak signal. The receiver front panel is 1/8 inch thick aluminum which qualifies as “plate” rather than “sheet”. The thickness of the front panel complicates construction because not all potentiometers have long enough threaded bushings for such a thick panel. Also, the die cast chassis has sloping sides which make it necessary to mount some components to the front panel rather than the chassis. Most of the radio frequency circuitry is under the chassis deck. There are two 3/4 inch thick wooden “end pieces” bolted to the diecast chassis. These serve to damp any vibration of the chassis and front panel. The audio amplifier/driver is located under the chassis deck and is isolated from the RF circuits by an aluminum shield partition. This partition has through holes for interconnecting wires and cables to pass. There is a jfet source follower immediately following the 1N34 bridge detector. This circuit uses a miniature audio transformer to provide some voltage gain.
Regeneration control is improved by running a length of RG-174/U coax from the circuit board to the regeneration control potentiometers wired so that the coax shield carries the supply voltage. The supply voltage is at or near RF ground. Small considerations like this do make a difference. I have tried it both ways.
This receiver is powered by four 1.5 Volt AA cells in series in aluminum battery holders. Regulation has been found to be unnecessary. The operating point of the antenna matching stage was recalculated from previous 9 Volt designs.
“Fringe howl” serves as a good fine tuning indicator: As the “very fine” regeneration control is backed down from outright oscillation to fringe howl the fringe howl can be tuned to “zero beat”. That means you have tuned in an AM signal exactly in the center of the carrier at maximum RF gain. You can then increase audio gain. And this tuning can be accomplished at the highest frequency this receiver tunes. If your receiver is built well enough you should be able to tune it as just described to a signal of moderate strength near 17 mHz, “bump” the receiver with your hand and observe very little difference in receiver output and no “microphonics”. Isolation of all audio circuits is essential for effective operation of this receiver just below oscillation. I verified the validity of this approach by temporarily mounting the audio follower circuit board incorporating an audio transformer close to the main RF board with a less than rigid mounting. The increase in microphonics was immediate and unmistakeable, and overall receiver performance was degraded. This circuit board was then mounted above the chassis deck against one of the wooden end pieces of the receiver enclosure with a resulting substantial improvement in receiver performance. The microphonics were gone.
The “gimmick” coupling capacitor between the first and second stages consists of two lengths of AWG #22 hookup wire twisted together. Each piece of wire was stripped of insulation at one end and soldered to the appropriate RF circuit board wiring at one end. The pieces of wire were then twisted together for about 6 turns so that the completed coupling capacitor was mounted to the board perpendicular to the board. When the receiver was complete and operational this coupling capacitor was trimmed one or two turns at a time until receiver performance was correct.
Be advised that 2N3819’s from different manufacturers behave differently. This receiver was first assembled with Vishay-Siliconix 2N3819’s. Nothing I could do would make the receiver oscillate over the entire tuning range. I then completely stripped the RF board and rewired it from scratch using a Fairchild 2N3819 for the regenerative stage and an old Motorola 2N3819 for the input stage(the Motorola 2N3819 having worked well in an earlier similar receiver at that position). It then worked as intended and continues to work very well. The audio section has two Vishay-Siliconix 2N3819’s and works well.
KEEP ONE THING IN MIND: IF THE COMPLETED RECEIVER DOES NOT REGENERATE REVERSE THE WIRES CONNECTED TO THE TICKLER COIL.
Smoothness of operation of the main tuning Vernier drive requires some persistence. I have mounted the main tuning capacitor with a nylon screw to its rear mounting lug only and have carefully adjusted the height of the rear mounting lug of the capacitor for minimum “drag” on the main tuning knob. The nylon screw has some flexibility and allows the capacitor to move slighty to compensate for misalignment. It was also necessary to partially disassemble the main tuning Vernier drive and tighten four small screws just under the dial plate(the head of one of then was visible at an odd angle behind the dial plate, and all of them turned out to be loose). I made an improvised holder for the small dial plate hold-down screws from a thin, stiff strip of cardboard with a hole near one end for the screws and a cut at the end to allow the screw holder to be removed from the partially tightened screw by pulling. Putting them in with your fingers doesn’t work.
Initial operation of this receiver has been encouraging. I tried listening on 19 meters at about 0400 UTC(11:00 pm here) and was surprised to hear Radio Norway with a good signal, and Radio New Zealand has been heard with fair signal strength in South Texas, USA. I use a sloping wire antenna about 35 feet long, maximum height about 25 feet.
Precise frequency measurement of received signals is possible with this receiver because I have a home brew diode stabilized VFO with digital readout that sits near the operating position. The VFO can be switched on and adjusted for zero-beat with the received signal. First,second, third and even fourth harmonics are received clearly. I always seem to be able to read received frequency to the nearest 200 Hz which is close enough.
Control of regeneration of this receiver is best done as follows: Turn the COARSE regeneration control fully CCW. Turn the FINE and VERY FINE regeneration controls fully CW. Choose the appropriate antenna coupling capacitor for the band being tuned, and set the FINE TUNING CAPACITOR to about mid-range. With receiver power on and the AUDIO GAIN set to about 3/4 fully CW carefully turn the COARSE regeneration control CW until a rather harsh continuous noise is heard. You want to be no further CW than is necessary to sustain this noise. Then turn the FINE regeneration control CCW until the noise just stops, then enough CW to sustain the noise. Do the same thing with the VERY FINE regeneration control. You should now be able to tune with the tuning controls and control regeneration with the VERY FINE regeneration control.
BILL YOUNG WD5HOH
Article originally at http://www.hal-pc.org/~blyoung/
A multiband antenna based on the Levy antenna model
A Reduced-Size Half Sloper For 160 Meters in Italian
By Bob Kirk, WD8DSB
Un Half- sloper per i 160 m di dimensioni ridotte.Traduzione di IK2PTR, rivisto e corretto da IW5EDI
Avete mai pensato di provare i 160 m ? L’inverno è il periodo perfetto per esplorare la “top band “.L’atmosfera è relativamente quieta ed da la possibilità di collegare molte stazioni europee e DX. Se abitate in un appartamento o in una zona ristretta, probabilmente, starete borbottando: ” Quest’uomo sta scherzando”. Sì, la maggior parte delle antenne per i 160 m sono grosse. Un dipolo a lunghezza piena per i 160 m è circa 80 m (260 ft), ma con un po’ di creatività è possibile costruire una antenna di piccole dimensioni senza sacrificare troppo le prestazioni. Non efficienti come quelle a lunghezza piena ma ti permettono di essere in aria. Non è quello che conta?
Il mio approccio
Probabilmente avete visto i disegni di antenne half-sloper, come suggerisce letteralmente il nome di queste, a noi italiani non suggerisce gran che, si versano verso terra da un albero o da un traliccio.
Molti sloper per i 160 m necessitano di supporti alti almeno 15 m, il problema è che la maggior parte dei tralicci sono solo 12 m.
E per i radioamatori che non hanno nemmeno un traliccio?
È il momento di cercare una soluzione.
I progetti tipici degli sloper usano il traliccio come metà antenna, connettendo lo schermo del cavo coassiale direttamente alla struttura metallica. Il conduttore centrale è collegato a un filo lungo 1/4 l che scende dalla torre verso terra.
La mia idea è di progettare uno sloper lungo la metà (1/8 l) utilizzando un carico induttivo posizionato direttamente nella parte superiore del filo (vedi fig1) ricercando il miglior compromesso con l’efficienza.Quei radioamatori che non hanno a disposizione un traliccio da 12m possono sostituirlo con un albero; usando un filo verticale connesso a terra che sostituisce il traliccio. (vedi fig2)
Realizzazione
Un tubo da 3/4 di pollice in PVC lungo 70 cm è utilizzato come sostegno della bobina.Ho scelto un tubo lungo 70 cm perché volevo avvolgere la bobina su un lato ed utilizzare il lato opposto per ancorarmi al traliccio.Tenete presente che questa bobina è progettata per una potenza massima di 100W.
Avvolgete 90 spire serrate di filo smaltato da 1,2 mm di diametro da un lato del tubo in PVC in modo da produrre una bobina lunga circa 12 cm.
( fig 3 : la distanza di 51/8 ” è relativa ai fori di fissaggio)
Nastrate la bobina con nastro isolante per impianti elettrici, almeno 2 strati, chi preferisce utilizzi guaina termorestringente o nastro auto vulcanizzante ricoperto da uno strato di nastro isolante.
Saldate il centrale del coassiale all’estremità interna della bobina e applicate del silicone sulla parte esposta della linea di alimentazione.
Saldate un filo da 14 m al lato esterno della bobina ( questo è lo sloper vero e proprio).
Installate la bobina sul traliccio e connettete lo schermo del coassiale ai montanti.
Costruite un choke RF avvolgendo 16 spire del coassiale su un diametro di 20 cm e posizionatelo 60 cm sotto il punto di alimentazione.
Stendete lo sloper facendolo terminare a 2 m circa da terra.
Se si vuole ottenere la migliore efficienza è opportuno stendere i radiali di massa indicati nelle figure, la lunghezza non importa però più sono lunghi meglio è. Lo sloper va tarato sulla frequenza desiderata variando la lunghezza del filo lungo 1/8 l
…….. l’articolo originale prosegue con la descrizione delle prove effettuate, curva del R.O.S., qso effettuati, ecc.
Low profile operating APARTMENT ANTENNAS
Successful apartment operating starts with an evaluation of the location.
Are you lucky enough to be on a upper floor? Is there trees outside? How about a deck?
Maybe even access to the roof. Any of these situations can be advantageous. One thing to remember with apartments is to try to get the antenna outside if possible.
There tends to be a lot of electrical noise, attenuation from steel frames, and RFI problems inside.
WIRE ANTENNAS Dipoles either vertical or horizontal can be run on the roof, around decks, up and down the side of the building, to trees (small gauge), in the attic, and even in your apartment. Runs as close to the 1/2 wave of the lowest band you are using when using a tuner. Feed with twin lead if possible as long as you pick up little noise.
VERTICALS UHF And VHF antennas can be made of “antenna tape” available commercially or from car antenna windshield kits from Radio Shack. These can be taped to your windows in the form as a J pole and can work quite well. Top Closet shelf’s and of course attics are good places for full size antennas on these frequency?s too. On HF verticals can be used as flag poles or on decks or inside, feed against a radial system under rugs ect. A lot can be done with mobile antennas such as “hamsticks” feed against a counterpoise maybe disguised as in a planter on your deck.
DIPOLES: If you have room for a full sized dipole, have at it but shortened dipoles can do well. Mobile antennas pared as a dipole can work well, also short dipoles wound on pvc pipe and hidden in a deck {maybe the one above you} may suppress you. Antennas built with “slinkys” have been around for a long time and have the advantage of hiding away quickly. They can be strung on fishing line and feed as a dipole in pares or feed in the middle with a matching system. When you are done just slide it away in a corner.
SMALL LOOPS: These antennas can work real well on the upper bands. There are several commercial versions and kits too. At only about 3-1/2 feet or so in diameter they are small and easily hidden. They have the advantage of being hi Q, this means that they reject signals and also noise outside of there narrow but tunable bandwidth. This also can help with RFI problems with your neighbors.
BEAMS On VHF a beam antenna can work well in the apartment or hidden in a deck, even a rotator can be used. I have seen a commercial version that hangs from you ceiling.
Again stay away from metal and wires to maintain your pattern.
A freeware dos program by John Agrelius released in early 90’s but still very actual.
It allows to quickly calculate dimensions for Quads antennas, Yagi antenna, Inverted vees antennas as well as J-poles and Traps to extend dipoles band coverage.
Just extract the antmaker.zip file and start the Menu.exe batch file.
Alain Miqueu, F6ITV
Which monoband directional antenna can provide a good gain, a good F/B ratio, being not to large and mechanically within hamradio skill? As it is used to say, it’s a process that consists in searching the best compromise.
To day I have built two Swiss Quad, one for 28 and another one for 50 MHz. So I take web opportunity in bringing this benefit to who is interested in building this antenna because it’s really fancy and it will give you excellent DX performances together with the satisfaction of its construction.
Notes
CLAIMED PERFORMANCES
DIMENSIONS
At first, my warmest acknowledgement to F3XY, R.Piat, author of a very well known book within the French-speaking community, “LES ANTENNES”.
Actually, F3XY provided me with an original document, which I was looking for since a long time, concerning the Swiss Quad antenna by Rudolf Baumgartner, HB9CV.
In spite this document is in German together with my poor knowledge of Goethe’s language, fortunately texts applying to calculations stay definitively understandable, so I am know in position to relate how HB9CV has defined the quad perimeters of his antenna.
So it simply leads to the following results:
Due to the specific geometry of the antenna, the length data seem difficult to determine.
But when watching at the opposite drawing it’s easy to deduce what are the length elements required for the construction.
The loop perimeter is P = 2*(L + H) with,
H = Height ; L = 2*l + d = width ; d = loop spacing
CALCULATION HELP
In order to avoid boring length calculations regarding the band, I developed the opposite EXCEL spreasheet which greatly facilitates the job.
Download the chart tool (6 ko) : SQc.zip
The tool is very flexible, it allows changing the frequency (CW or SSB centered), modifying the various coefficients (lambda fraction) applicable to the spacing and the loop perimeters and after final decision to freeze as constants, the height H and the spacing d.
CAUTION, modification of coefficients is a facility provided only to see how they act on antenna dimensions. Modelisation is the only tool that can tell how modifications influence antenna performances.
It’s obvious that the accuracy of the figures results from theoretical calculations and that they can be rounded without any problem.
CONSTRUCTION
Following some requests for clarifying text and photos, I give hereafter a description concerning the SQ28MHz I constructed. It’s a light version that has been under several bad weather influences, it was removed after 5 years (1988-1993) operation (see 10m dxcc entities) and it has demonstrated its serviceability. Obviously other tubing and/or wire diameters can be used because all the customisations will be automatically taken into account during the antenna resonance implementation.
Some drilling and diameter informations are not provided. They depend on the material and the hardware you will use.
Sizes
Determination of d
It’s recommended choosing a loop spacing equal to 0.1 lambda
Determination of H
H, the loop height, is the same for the reflector and the director. H is theoretically determined as being a 1/4 perimeter of the reflector loop, which is the longer. I never found any precise information on this topic but, in practical, H is slightly lengthened and on 10m I chose a h = 0.26 coefficient in order to get a rounded H value of 3.15m.
Determination of L and l
When rounded H and d values are entered in the concerned cells of the chart, then you will get for each loop the L and l values.
Antenna Assembly
It’s very important to respect the general symmetry of the loops but also the length difference between loop perimeters.
Vertical Elements
I used a 1mm2 supple-sheathed cable made of several thin copper wires (100w suitable) and having an H length, soldered terminals included.
Horizontal Elements
After d, H, L and l determination, it’s time to come to the making of a horizontal element. For each horizontal element I used a central section made of aluminum squared tubing, 50cm long and 20x20x1.5mm. Two sections of aluminum tubing, 1m long and 16mm diameter, can slide inside the squared tubing in order to adjust the d spacing and the other end is bent at 45° on a length of 25cm. Determine the correct position of these sections inside the squared tubing, drill where it’s necessary in order to fasten them with screws, washers, nuts and inside wedges if necessary. (photos).
Assembling two horizontal elements makes top and bottom of the loops. An OM easy to do aluminum special part ensures a reliable 90° crossing between two horizontal elements and the mast as well. (photos). Some advises:
In order to ensure a tension of the vertical wired elements connected to the end of the l elements, I highly recommend bending slightly, up or down depending on their location, the 25cm-section bent at 45°.
In order to adjust the loop perimeters during antenna resonance implementation, the l elements are made of 12mm-outer-diameter aluminum tubing, therefore they can slide inside the 25cm-section 16mm-diameter bent at 45° tubing. The ends of the bent sections are sawed in the length way by 3cm maximum. A clamping ring will allow locking the l element. (photos)
Feeding Case
Dual Gamma
Mast
It is made of two TV stackable sections, 2m long and 40mm diameter. Drillings have to be accurate because they must perfectly agree with the top and bottom loop assembly ones.
Hardware/Water-resistance
It’s highly recommended using stainless steel hardware of a very good quality and also using seal mastic where it’s necessary. 5-years-in-service corrosion is highly visible on the photos.
LOOP PERIMETER ADJUSTMENT STRATEGY
RESONANCE IMPLEMENTATION
After antenna assembly and when it is in testing situation:
This first adjustment is normally easy to get, but it doesn’t take into account the difficulties in reaching physically the adjustment points. Hi!
PUTTING A STOP
For humidity reasons it will be necessary to replace the variable capacitor by a fixed one having a low temperature factor and suitable with the operating power. This entails to remove the capacitor set and to be able to estimate accurately its value or better to measure it. I preferred to place a capacitor equal to approximately the 3/4 of the estimated value and to test several values in parallel up to get the previous SWR and bandwidth.
Following my experience on the 50MHz version that allows an easy access to the adjustment points owing to its small size, an accurate adjustment of the dual-gamma is the best way to optimize the SWR together with the bandwidth. In fact, the best short-circuit locations are obtained when the gamma length toward the reflector is longer than toward the director.
After the antenna installed at the final location, don’t forbid that probably you would have to start again the adjustment procedure. After all this is true for any kind of antenna.
What is Amateur Radio, what do radio amateurs do? Do I have to buy expensive commercial equipment, or can I build my own? Will I need massive aerials (antennas)? What kind of licence do I need? How do I get one? Do I need to pass technical exams and morse tests? Where do I start?
It can all seem a very daunting task at first.
This article is here to help you, so read on, and start to enjoy a very fascinating hobby.
Amateur ( Ham ) radio is not “CB”. Operators are strictly licenced by various governments and enjoy many more privileges than do “CB” operators.
It allows millions to communicate worldwide using speech, computer data, and morse code, just to name a few.
Radio Hams can transmit and receive using satellites, and can send TV pictures too. Some even ‘bounce’ their signals off the moon.
Radio Amateurs have contributed to the advances in technology that we all enjoy today.
Some astronauts are also amateur radio operators, and they often take amateur radio equipment with them on space shuttle missions and talk to earthbound amateurs from space.
Amateur radio has many facets. It enables you to understand electronics. Its a great way to improve your geography, make new friends and practice your language skills, although almost all ‘hams’ speak some basic English, and exchange signal reports and station details in a mix of Q-code and English.
There are many specialised aspects to the hobby and whilst one amateur may be chasing rare DX ( long distance ) countries on the short wave (HF) bands, another may be designing and building a microwave aerial / dish, or building a new transceiver.
There are those who are more interested technical aspects of the hobby, and build their own equipment, and test out different aerials (antennas) etc. They may only have occasional contacts on the air to check out their latest experiment / project, or to discuss some technical point with a like minded friend.
Radio Amateurs also provide a valuable community service, frequently providing essential emergency communications for disaster relief and in times of national emergency, as they did in the Sep. 11 disaster in New York and the Asian Tsunami.
Transmitting Licences
A licence is necessary in order to transmit on the Amateur Bands, or frequencies. In most countries an Amateur Radio Licence is issued, for the purpose of self training, by the individual concerned, in the art of (all forms) of Radio Communication. A licence is not usually needed to “listen in” to Ham Radio transmissions.
Transmitting licence regulations vary in detail from country to country, but are broadly similar. Generally you will need to pass some form of technical exam. Technical Colleges and radio clubs provide the necessary training and examination centres.
Arrangements vary for different countries.
To transmit on the LF & HF short wave bands (Frequencies below 30MHz ) some countries may still require the applicant to pass some form of morse code test in addition to the technical exam.
The morse code requirement has been eliminated in many countries, and many others are expected to do the same.
To encourage newcomers to the hobby, many countries now allow access to the HF (Short Wave ) bands with minimal qualifications, but with reduced privileges, such as only using low power and certain frequencies.
These are often called Novice Licences. The UK in example, has a licence structure which has an entry level known as the Foundation Licence, which came into force in January 2002, an Intermediate Level, similar to the old Novice Licence, but with higher power, and the new Advanced Licence, which is the same as the former Full Licence with all privileges. In Italy instead there are no differences, and a single level Licence is provided.
To find out more about your country’s requirements, contact your national society. You can locate many national societies or local radio clubs here.
There are licenced radio amateurs in most countries. All are issued with a unique callsign to identify their station which begin with prefixes identifying their country, eg, G, M & 2E for England, D for Germany, I for Italy, K,W,N for USA
Frequency Allocations and QSOs
Radio amateurs can contact each other on a variety of frequencies, or bands, that are allocated for their use. The bands are usually known by their approximate wavelength, e.g. 20 metres, which is a popular band for international communications, this wavelength corresponds to a frequency of around 14MHz The most popular bands are the HF, High Frequency, or short-wave, bands. These are in the 1.8MHz to 30MHz frequency range and the VHF or Very High Frequency. 144MHz, band, often referred to as 2 metres, from its wavelength.
Amateurs can make contact with others using speech, Morse, (CW), Radio Teleprinter (RTTY), digital techniques (including Packet Radio), Television (Fast and Slow Scan), and other modes.
A contact between two stations is known as a QSO (part of the International Q Code, used, when sending morse, to reduce the number of characters that need to be sent. It also helps to cross language barriers). This is usually initiated by an amateur putting out a “CQ”, or general call, to announce that they are looking for a contact. Another amateur who hears this call can then reply, and brief exchange of station details will then probably result. The contact may consist of little more than an exchange of signal reports, or it may develop into a longer, more conversational, exchange QSL cards and awards
Some amateurs exchange “QSL” cards to confirm the contact. These are often collected and can be used as proof to claim an award for contacting so many countries, states, or having collected so many points etc. To save money, such cards are often sent via a QSL bureau staffed by volunteers, or National Society. In this way, cards can be sent in bulk for one payment of postage.
Some amateurs prefer to send their cards direct, then you get to collect the postage stamps as well as the QSL cards! Increasingly cards are being sent electronically using e-mail
Equipment
Receivers
To listen to amateur radio transmissions, you need a communications receiver. The normal domestic radio is not normally suitable for receiving amateur radio short wave transmissions.
Even if it is, such radios are primarily designed for listening to high power commercial stations, such as the BBC World Service, Voice of America, Radio Moscow etc., and are not sensitive enough to receive the much lower power amateur radio stations.
Commonly such receivers cannot resolve SSB (single sideband) or FM transmissions from amateurs, as most commercial broadcasts are on the older AM (amplitude modulation) system.
To receive amateur short wave transmissions, your receiver should be capable of tuning 1.8 to 30MHz, and capable of receiving AM, CW, and SSB at least.
Transmitters / Transceivers
In order to communicate via radio, you need a transmitter, or transceiver, such as the one on the right. A transceiver is simply a transmitter and receiver combined into one unit.
Transmitters range from simple low power, low cost, devices, often only capable of sending morse, to complex multipurpose high power ones, and can be home built or commercially manufactured, the latter being the more common.
Cost
You don’t have to spend a lot of money on expensive equipment to enjoy amateur radio, this is just the impression you could get from reading radio magazines!
Many ‘hams’ do not spend a lot of money on their hobby. When I first started I had lots of fun as a schoolboy buying government war surplus equipment, and converting it for amateur radio use, and you still can, although there is a lot less surplus equipment around now.
There are low cost kits so you can build up your station in easy stages.
To be able to build your own equipment, or modify existing, and use it on the air, generally you need to have a full amateur radio licence. The various kinds of novice licence usually mean you have to purchase low cost, low power commercial equipment.
Aerials (Antennas)
As with receivers, transmitters etc., you don’t have to buy expensive aerials (also called antennas). Aerials do not have to be large and unsightly to be effective. Efficient short wave antennas can be constructed with nothing more than some ordinary thin flexible wire, at very little cost, should you have the room in a garden, or have some very accommodating neighbours.
How to become a Radio Amateur
A good way to start is to join your local club and / or National Society. There you will meet enthusiastic, like minded people, many of whom are only too willing to help you get started. Many clubs run courses to train you to pass the exams and assessments needed to gain a licence. They will also be able to help out with understanding your national requirements. You will be given the opportunity to experience amateur radio for yourself. The national society for the USA is the American Radio Relay League, ARRL. Try their website.
I was in need of an antenna for my 10 meter beacon, so I decided to build a design I remembered seeing in an issue of QST several years ago. A friend of mine built one at the time and it worked great. It is a simple rigid dipole made from two lengths of 1/2″ electrical conduit that are separated by a 5/8″ wooden dowel that is inserted into the ends of the conduit and held together with hose clamps. It is necessary to cut two 2″ or so long slits in the end of the conduit that the dowel rod is inserted into. This allows the hose clamps to compress the conduit onto the dowel rod to hold it all together. The dowel rod I used is four feet long, so I had about 2 feet in each leg of the dipole for rigid support.
The dipole can be fed directly with coax, or a balun can be used. It can also be fed with twinlead or ladder line. It is important to seal the insulating dowel with epoxy to keep it from rotting. I used the hose clamps to attach the coax to the antenna.
Caps should be placed on each end of the antenna to keep out moisture. I found that the threaded 1/2″ PVC caps work well on 1/2″ conduit. They can be just placed on the ends but I fixed them on with epoxy. Make sure that this is done after shortening the antenna for best VSWR match.
The length for each leg of the dipole is found using the formula L=234/F, where L=length in inches and F=frequency antenna is to be used on. If the antenna is too short, it can be lengthened by increasing the space between them on the insulator and lengthening each side of the coax or ladder line feed on the dowel.
This antenna must be mounted so that it is insulated from ground. Mine is mounted on a 4X4 and attached to a 2X4 that is buried two feet into the ground. I used U bolts to secure the antenna to the 2X4. This antenna could also be mounted horizontally off the side of a tower.
This antenna could also be built for the 12 meter band, and possibly even for the 15 meter band. However, most conduit you find in hardware stores is sold in 10-foot lengths, and a 15 meter antenna will need to be around 11 feet long. Some method lf lengthening the antenna will be needed. It could be done by attaching another foot of conduit to each end by using connector pieces for conduit.
It must be noted that copper tubing can also be used in place of conduit and may actually work better due to the improved conductivity of copper over the conduit. Copper tubing is often used in J-pole construction and there’s no reason it couldn’t be used here. It is, though, softer than conduit so it may not be as tough, but it should be able to last many years.
If copper pipe is used, it is advisable to paint it.
copyright n2uhc originally available at http://www.geocities.com/n2uhc_2/10m_dipole.html